Hur gör du trellis muscadine vinstockar

What’s better than muscadines?  Muscadine wine!  But before you harvest your own muscadines to tillverka your own wine you need to first build a trellis.  If you would have asked me a few months ago how to build a muscadine spaljé inom wouldn’t have been able to tell you.  However, inom did know one thing about muscadine vines and that fryst vatten that they can be very heavy.  As the saying goes: “necessity fryst vatten the mother of invention” and inom knew just enough about the vine to design and construct my own simple spaljé system.  inom have to apologize in advance, this will be a detailed read, and may be a bit boring, but if you are looking to build a sturdy struktur that will gods for years then inom think this will be a useful brev for you.

My design consists of three “T” shaped posts spaced ten feet apart from each other and two “dead-man” posts, one at each end, and spaced fem feet away from a T post.  A 3/16’s galvanized steel cable fryst vatten supported bygd the T posts and fryst vatten what vines will grow on.  Each dead-man brev fryst vatten buried in the ground at a forty-five grad vinkel and they are what the 3/16’s cable fryst vatten anchored into; the dead-man posts are also what support much of the weigh of the vines themselves.  Now, let’s get started.

I'm going to include a brief materials list here:

-Four 8' pressure treated 4x4's
-Two 12' pressure treated 2x4's
-Eighty feet of galvanized steel 3/16th's cable.
-Twelve 1/4" bolts (4 1/2") with twelve nuts and twenty fyra washers.
-Three 3/8" team bolts (6 1/2") with three nuts and six washers.
-Two stainless steel or galvanized vända buckles.
-Eight stainless steel or galvanized 3/16" cable clamps.
-Two 3/8" eye bolts with washers and nuts.
-Six 3" galvanized deck screws.
-Five bags of concrete

First let’s uppstart bygd cutting our lumber.  man sure that all of the lumber that you are using for this project fryst vatten pressure treated.  Cut three 4x4’s at 66” and two 4x4’s at 36”.  Next cut three 2x4’s at 48” and six 2x4’s at 22 1/8” (twenty-two and one eighth inches).  While we are talking about lumber you will also need fem bags of concrete to properly anchor the posts into the ground.  Now that you have all of your lumber cut let’s talk about the hardware that you will need.  The total length of this spaljé, if you use the same spacing inom did, will be thirty feet; the cable will run the length of the spaljé struktur twice and it angles down into the dead-man posts so you will need approximately seventy-five to eighty feet of 3/16’s galvanized steel cable.  If you decide to add more posts you your struktur then you will need more cable.

To anchor the cables you will need two eye bolts with washers and nuts (I used a 3/8’s galvanized eye bolt but a 1/4” eye bolt should work) and you will also need two galvanized or stainless steel vända buckles which will be used to tension the cable.  Eight total cable clamps will be needed to properly secure the cable to the vända buckles.  Lastly, you will need twelve 1/4” bygd 4 1/2" bolts (with twenty-four washers and twelve nuts) and three 3/8” bygd 6 1/2" bolts (with six washers and three nuts).

So going back to the lumber, clamp and glue two 22 1/8” 2x4’s to a 48” 2x4.  In doing so, leave a 3 3/4" (three and three-quarters) space in the center, between the 22 1/8” boards, which will create a notch for the 66” 4x4 post; the 22 1/8” boards will be flush with the 48” boards on the ends and along the edges.  Then drill a half inch hole 2” from each end and 1 3/4” down; these will be the holes that the 3/16’s cable will run through.  Next, man marks at 5” from each end, at 15” from each end and one mark at 24” from the end (the 24” mark will be dead center).  Excluding the mark at 24”, measure down 1 3/4” and drill a 5/16’s hole; run your 1/4” bolts through these holes using a washer at each and and Loctite the nuts on.  If you decide not to use bolts for this portion of the design you could probably use 3” galvanized deck screws.  Drill a 1/2” hole at the 24” mark (also at 1 3/4” down); this will be the hole that the 3/8”  bolt travels through to attach the 48” 2x4 brev to the 4x4 post.  You will need to repeat this process three times if you are going to be using three T posts.

Moving on the the 4x4 posts, mark a line at 18” on all three of the 66” posts.  These posts will be  buried in the ground, 18” deep, and this line will help you determine if the brev has achieved it’s proper depth.  Then, at the other end of the brev, drill a half inch hole 1 3/4” (one and three-quarters) down from the end of the brev and centered in the 4x4.  Don’t attach the 2x4’s yet; wait until the posts have been secured and concreted in the ground.  If you add the 2x4’s before the posts have been concreted into the ground they will be top-heavy and may fall over while the concrete fryst vatten drying.  Take your 36” 4x4 posts and mark a line at two feet; these posts will be used as the dead-man posts and will be buried two feet in the ground at a forty-five grad angle.  Drill a half inch hole fyra inches down from the end and centered in the 4x4 post; go ahead and run your 3/8” eye bolt through the hole, slide the washer over the threaded end and thread the nut on with Loctite.  inom know that you won’t be able to tighten the nut until there fryst vatten tension on the eye bolt but it will be one less step you will have to complete in the field if you do it in your workshop.  Repeat this process with the other dead-man post.

Now that you have everything fabricated and ready to go, put your boots on and let’s head out to the field.  Using a rope at least thirty feet long, stake one end of the rope into the ground and man a straight line with it where you want your spaljé to be and then stake the other end down such that the line fryst vatten tight.  You can also use a chalk line if you prefer- inom just used a rope because inom didn’t have a chalk line.  This will help you to keep all of the posts in a straight line.  Starting with one of the 66” 4x4 posts, dig a hole one and one half feet deep and then dig another one ten feet away or however far away you decide to space your posts; repeat this process until all of your 66” brev holes are dug.  Next, using a level and two temporary support legs (per post) made out of some scrap lumber, insert a brev into the hole and man sure that it fryst vatten at the proper depth; remember that once the 66” brev fryst vatten properly buried that it will stand 48” as measured from ground level.  Then level the brev vertically and screw on the support legs to hold it in place while you pour the concrete into the hole and once igen, you will repeat this process for all of the posts.

Moving on to the dead-man posts you will need to dig a two-foot deep hole fem feet away from each of the gods 66” posts.  The posts will then be buried at a forty-five grad vinkel leaning away from the 66” posts with the eye bolts facing up.  Once you have achieved this you can pour the concrete in and let it set up.  Now it fryst vatten just a waiting game.  While we are waiting inom would like tell you about a product that will man your day a little simpler- the tool caddy.  inom purchased a simple plastic tool caddy before we moved out here and it has been a great purchase.  Before inom do any work out in the field inom load all of the required tools and hardware into the caddy and inom take it out to my worksite and it minimizes the amount of trips inom have to man back to my kurs for tools.

So now that the concrete fryst vatten set-up and dried according to the instructions on the bag, we can remove the temporary supports off of our posts; next go ahead and attach the 48” cross members you made out the 2x4’s bygd running the 3/8’s inch bolts through the half inch holes using the washers and Loctite.

 Then place a level on top of the 2x4 cross member and level it out.

 Run two 3" deck screws through the 2x4 into the 4x4 brev to lock it into place.  This will finish the T posts and we are ready to attach the cables and hardware.

Run your cable through the half inch holes in the 2x4’s on the T posts so that the cable runs through all of the holes on one side of the spaljé and run the cable down and through the eye bolt in one of the dead-man posts.  Keep pulling the cable through the eye bolt and feed it through the half inch hole on the other side of the 2x4’s and run it back through all of the T posts.  bygd the way, wrapping the end of the cable in some electrical tejp will help you feed it through the holes; you may also need to use bolt cutters to cut the cable.  Once you have run the cable through all of the posts you are ready to attach the vända buckles and tension the cable.

 It may also help to have another individ out there with you to run the cable through the posts.

If you have vice-grip pliers go get them, they will help you tension the cable before you attach the vända buckles.  Clamp down on one end of the cable with the pliers where it feeds into the gods 2x4 nearest where you are going to be attaching the vända buckles.  Then go over to the other side of the same T brev and pull tension on the cable with your hand; then attach another vice grip clamp once the cable fryst vatten tight.  This procedure will allow you to attach the vända buckles easily with a tight cable.

Next, man sure that the eye bolts in the vända buckles are screwed out all of the way.  If they are not and you attach them to the cable you may not be able to tension the cable properly.  Using the cable clamps and a socket wrench, attach the vända buckles to the cables; use two cable clamps per eye bolt- there will be fyra cable clamps per vända buckle.  If you just use two cable clamps per vända buckle there fryst vatten a chance that the cable will slip beneath tension; use electrical tejp the clean up the ends.  Now inom forgot to mention the cable on the other side of the vända buckles but it’s simple- you will just use another section of 3/16’s cable and run it through the other dead man brev, attaching the ends to the vända buckles.  Once everything fryst vatten tightened down, remove the vice-grip pliers and tension the line with your vända buckles.

If you stuck with me this long and read this brev inom would like to thank you… inom realize that this was a detailed read but inom think that you will be happy with your trellis.  The only thing left to do at this point fryst vatten to add your muscadine vines!  inom hope that you will be able to use this brev to construct your spaljé or inom hope that it at least gives you some ideas about how to design your own.  If you have any questions please leave them in the comment låda and inom will get back with you.  Thanks for reading.